I’m here primarily to make music, so let’s talk about that first! Yesterday I met Kristian Blak, a legend on the Faroese music scene. He welcomed me into his house which is in the beautiful old part of Torshavn, near the harbour.
I was greeted by the cat and I seemed to pass the test, as she was soon purring next to me. Always good to make friends with the head of the house!
It was good to be able to ask Kristian about some of the music I’ve been playing: not just his, but some of the traditional tunes I have as well. “Tistram” is a piece for solo viola by Kristian based on the “Tristan and Isolde” legend, and I had a few questions about how he wanted it played and what various passages were depicting. We also talked about “Tað heila gongur av lagi” which means, “It’s all gone wrong” and is a humorous take on some traditional songs. It’s a beautiful and fun piece and will definitely be coming out in concert sometime.
Tonight I popped into the music school. What a fabulous and thriving place with lovely, friendly, energetic staff. I was made to feel at home right away. I was treated to a short concert by some of the pupils and was well-impressed! I was also kindly allowed to stay in the building to practise for a while. I’ll be back there to teach and play next week.
Of course this trip isn’t just about the music. I’m here to explore, too! Today I was lucky enough to have a hot (yes, really!) sunny day to cross the island of Streymoy to Kirkjubøur, the country’s most important historical site with the ruins of the Magnus Cathedral from around 1300, the Saint Olav’s Church from 12th century and the old farmhouse Kirkjubøargarður from 11th century.
On the way across the pass, I was treated to the stunning panorama of the islands of Hestur, Sandoy and Koltur. I also learned why they say if the fog rolls in, stay still and wait. Even on a nice day the weather is volatile here and there was quite a lot of cloud inversion going on.
Tomorrow I go to the NW outpost of Mykines by helicopter. There’s some wild weather forecast, so I’m glad I booked the hostel. Hold onto your hats!
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